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Writer's pictureBretton Lakes

Discover Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness: A Visitor’s Guide

Introduction


The Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness, located in central Idaho, is one of the largest contiguous wilderness areas in the United States, covering over 2.3 million acres. This remote and rugged landscape is characterized by deep canyons, dense forests, and the wild and scenic Salmon River. Known for its pristine beauty and abundant wildlife, the wilderness offers a true escape into nature. Whether you’re into hiking, rafting, fishing, or simply enjoying the solitude, the Frank Church Wilderness provides an unforgettable adventure.



Top Attractions


Salmon River


Often called “The River of No Return,” the Salmon River is the heart of the wilderness. It offers world-class whitewater rafting, with rapids ranging from Class II to Class IV, making it a thrilling adventure for both novice and experienced rafters. The river also provides excellent fishing opportunities for trout and salmon.


Middle Fork of the Salmon River


The Middle Fork is renowned for its clear waters, challenging rapids, and stunning scenery. A multi-day rafting trip down this river is considered one of the best wilderness experiences in the United States. The Middle Fork also offers hot springs, historic sites, and excellent fishing.


Big Horn Crags


The Big Horn Crags are a dramatic mountain range within the wilderness, known for their jagged peaks and alpine lakes. The area offers some of the most spectacular hiking and backpacking in the region, with trails leading to pristine lakes and panoramic views of the surrounding wilderness.


Sheepeater Cliff


Named after the native Sheepeater Shoshone people, this volcanic rock formation is a unique geological feature. The area around Sheepeater Cliff offers hiking and wildlife viewing opportunities, as well as insights into the region’s cultural history.


Chamberlain Basin


Located in the heart of the wilderness, Chamberlain Basin is a remote and beautiful area known for its meadows, forests, and abundant wildlife. The basin is accessible by hiking or horseback riding and offers excellent opportunities for solitude and exploration.



Best Hikes


Middle Fork Salmon River Trail


This trail follows the Middle Fork of the Salmon River for over 100 miles, offering stunning views of the river and surrounding wilderness. The trail can be accessed at various points, allowing for shorter day hikes or extended backpacking trips. Highlights include hot springs, historic cabins, and excellent fishing spots.


Big Horn Crags Trail


The Big Horn Crags Trail provides access to some of the most spectacular scenery in the wilderness. The 24-mile round trip hike takes you through dense forests, alpine meadows, and past numerous lakes, including the stunning Ship Island Lake. This challenging hike is best suited for experienced hikers and backpackers.


Chamberlain Basin Trail


This trail leads to the remote and beautiful Chamberlain Basin, offering a challenging and rewarding hike through diverse landscapes. The 14-mile round trip hike features meadows, forests, and opportunities for wildlife viewing. The basin itself is a serene and picturesque destination.


Sheepeater Trail


The Sheepeater Trail offers a moderate hike through forests and meadows, with opportunities to explore the unique volcanic rock formations of Sheepeater Cliff. The 8-mile round trip hike is accessible and provides excellent opportunities for wildlife viewing and photography.



Water Activities


Whitewater Rafting


The Frank Church Wilderness is renowned for its world-class whitewater rafting. Specific examples of popular rafting trips include:


  • Salmon River: Known for its challenging rapids and stunning scenery, the Main Salmon offers multi-day rafting adventures with Class III and IV rapids.

  • Middle Fork of the Salmon River: This river offers a premier rafting experience, with over 100 miles of rapids, hot springs, and historic sites.


Fishing


The wilderness is a haven for anglers, with its pristine rivers and lakes teeming with fish. Popular fishing spots include:


  • Salmon River: Known for its trout and salmon fishing, the Salmon River offers excellent opportunities for fly fishing.

  • Middle Fork of the Salmon River: This river is renowned for its clear waters and abundant trout, making it a favorite among fly fishermen.


Kayaking and Canoeing


While the wilderness is more famous for its rafting, kayaking and canoeing are also popular activities:


  • Marsh Creek: A tributary of the Middle Fork, Marsh Creek offers challenging kayaking in a remote and scenic setting.

  • Big Creek: Known for its technical rapids and beautiful scenery, Big Creek provides an exciting kayaking adventure.



Wildlife Viewing


The Frank Church Wilderness is home to a diverse array of wildlife, including elk, deer, black bears, mountain lions, and wolves. Bird watchers can also spot eagles, hawks, and numerous songbirds. The best times for wildlife viewing are early morning and late evening. Always maintain a safe distance and follow forest guidelines to ensure both your safety and the well-being of the animals.


Practical Tips


  • Weather: Weather in the Frank Church Wilderness can be unpredictable, with cool temperatures and sudden storms even in summer. Dress in layers and be prepared for changing conditions.

  • Permits: Some areas, such as the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, require permits for rafting and camping. These can be obtained from the appropriate managing agencies. Be sure to check specific regulations and obtain any necessary permits before your trip.

  • Leave No Trace: Help preserve the wilderness by following Leave No Trace principles. Pack out all trash, stay on designated trails, and avoid disturbing wildlife.

  • Safety: Cell service is limited in many areas of the wilderness. Carry a map, compass, or GPS device for navigation, and let someone know your plans before heading out on a hike or backcountry trip. Bring plenty of water, and be aware of local wildlife, including bears and mountain lions.



Where to Stay


Lodges and Cabins


  • River of No Return Lodge: Located along the Salmon River, this lodge offers comfortable accommodations and guided rafting trips. It’s a great base for exploring the river and surrounding wilderness.

  • Middle Fork Lodge: Situated along the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, this lodge provides rustic cabins and guided fishing and rafting adventures.

  • Yellow Pine Cabins: Located near the edge of the wilderness, these cabins offer a cozy retreat with easy access to hiking and fishing.


Campgrounds


While the Frank Church Wilderness is primarily a backcountry destination, there are some established campgrounds on its periphery:


  • Boundary Creek Campground: Located near the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, this campground offers a convenient starting point for rafting trips.

  • Indian Creek Campground: Situated along the Salmon River, this campground provides easy access to rafting and fishing.

  • Big Creek Campground: Located near the Big Creek trailhead, this campground offers a great base for hiking and kayaking.


Backcountry Camping


For those seeking solitude and a true wilderness experience, backcountry camping in the Frank Church Wilderness is a fantastic option. Obtain a permit and explore remote areas like the Chamberlain Basin or the Big Horn Crags, where you can enjoy pristine wilderness and minimal human contact.


Conclusion


The Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness is a vast and breathtaking destination that offers endless opportunities for adventure and solitude. Whether you’re rafting the wild waters of the Salmon River, hiking to the serene Chamberlain Basin, or exploring the dramatic Big Horn Crags, you’ll find a connection with nature that is both exhilarating and rejuvenating. Plan your visit, pack your gear, and get ready to experience the wild beauty of the Frank Church Wilderness.

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